Cold is quickly becoming a permanent feature of life here. It is cold outside, it is cold in my house, it is cold in my office, in the bathroom, in the kitchen and in my bedroom. You cannot escape the cold. But this is not an exceptional season. The cold comes every year, and every year the entire country just bundles up against it for the season. But that is all they do.

I have never been to a country that is less prepared for or more surprised by its own regular weather patterns.